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Post by Jeremy on May 5, 2005 17:39:56 GMT -5
What is the best way to remove oxidation, on headlights, turnsignals, and the paint?
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Post by 124Spider on May 5, 2005 17:44:30 GMT -5
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MIGHTY
GT Crew
1987 CELICA CONVERT. ARRRRR
Posts: 109
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Post by MIGHTY on May 5, 2005 23:04:49 GMT -5
OK Ill tell you it is impossible to totally remove oxidation without painting, oxidation is tricky to work with, it has no protection over it so it will burn and fade just by wiping it!!. but i have been using 2 products that will cut the fade time down by 2 years(on my car). after a heartfilled buff and polish, i use a product by 3M Trizact 3000, its a 3000 grit compound that has polish type ingredents, apply after washing, wipe on to a haze, and then with the trizact still on the car , apply the Mcguaires Sealant not Carnuba, this will hold in moisture and give your car a lasting protection from the ultraviolet rays that cause the Oxidation, as far as the lamps are concerned use the Trizact it will work beyond your belief, well thiers your tips from a Professional Auto Detailer!! ;D
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Post by dansgts on May 5, 2005 23:14:14 GMT -5
^^hey mighty, how bout you come down here and detail my car like that and ill do your dash in cf like mine. sound like a deal  |
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MIGHTY
GT Crew
1987 CELICA CONVERT. ARRRRR
Posts: 109
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Post by MIGHTY on May 6, 2005 0:10:19 GMT -5
Hey DAN i charge 150 for a basic detail!! thats alot of carbon fiber!! lol ;D
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Post by blck87gtconv on May 6, 2005 0:48:25 GMT -5
What is the best way to remove oxidation, on headlights, turnsignals, and the paint? It's different depending on the surface. Headlights are either glass or plastic... turn signals are plastic, and paint is.. well, paint. For plastic parts, you can wet-sand the surface smooth with 2000+ grit sandpaper, a bucket, a rag, and a wet sponge to wrap the sandpaper around. VERY LIGHTLY wet-sand the surface until it's even and smooth. Let it dry, and use a plastic polish like Meguiar's Plastic-X, or just spray on a clear coat. Voila.. looks new again. For paint, it really depends on the oxidation. If it's a damaged clear-coat, there's really nothing you can do except prep and re-spray the panel. If it's a stage1 paint, and it's just dull and primer-looking, you can bring it back. Just use the standard detailing procedures. Wash from top to bottom, yada yada.. with a good shampoo.. yada yada.. Then clay bar to prep the surface for restoration. The oxidation is removed with the paint scrub/rubbing compound/paint cleaner. 3M makes some excellent products for it, but I've always just used a general purpose Meguiar's paint cleaner for restoring oxidized paint. It takes more elbow grease, but there's less chance of cutting too deep. Once the once-dull paint has some gloss to it, use a polish to help even out the surface and add a bit of depth, and use a sealant if you like. Meguiar's NXT wax is comparable to Zaino and Klasse for sealant and protection. Although, my personal favorite wax is Zymol. The paint cleaner step may require several passes before the oxidized paint is entirely removed, but it's well worth it. I've restored an old Mercedes that started out looking like it was primer blue, and ended up looking show-room ready after this process. The paint on it looked better than every newer Mercedes I saw next to it on the same day. MIGHTY, I'm not a professional detailer, as I don't do it for a living, but I do it on the side. I've yet to charge more than $75 for a detail. You've got competition. |
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Post by Jeremy on May 6, 2005 23:14:24 GMT -5
there is a girl here that is apart of the MR2 club & she charges $250 a detail, and she is booked up like 2 months in advance, she does it on the weekends.
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Post by phillk6751 on May 7, 2005 0:23:10 GMT -5
A guy I met that works @ a local GI Joes offered to detail my celica for $75...once I get my tax returns I'm gunna go ahead...He said he'd also paint my front lip to match the car color. All I need to do is go to a Toyota dealer to get a thing of matching paint(scratch remover stuff) so he can dupe it.
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MIGHTY
GT Crew
1987 CELICA CONVERT. ARRRRR
Posts: 109
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Post by MIGHTY on May 7, 2005 19:33:27 GMT -5
Hey black you really need to charge a little more, cause if you charge for a cheap detail thats what your customer expects of your work but if you charge them a little more they will take notice that you charge alot so you must be good, you can do something that will catch the eye of the coustmer like getting a scrub brush and get the floor mats and mist some cleaner or water on them and then take the bhrush and make a coordinated design, to show that you took the time to make lines in thier floor mats, trust me make your money while you can!!!! MIGHTY
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Post by blck87gtconv on May 7, 2005 23:18:01 GMT -5
I might. My customers have all been family or friends of family.. I don't have much time to devote to it as a full time college student. But I'll definitely be doing it more this summer.
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Post by 124Spider on May 8, 2005 1:34:47 GMT -5
Yeah, I'd pay a good deal more for a good, thorough job which would restore the lustre of the paint.
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Post by blck87gtconv on May 8, 2005 2:36:43 GMT -5
Okay, then I'll start doing that. Most of what I do is paint restoration anyway.
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MIGHTY
GT Crew
1987 CELICA CONVERT. ARRRRR
Posts: 109
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Post by MIGHTY on May 8, 2005 12:35:17 GMT -5
!!! |
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