Post by schmooot on Sept 17, 2004 1:12:50 GMT -5
Well we all know how much motor mounts are from toyota and from any aftermarket store will still cost ya 75 bux each at least so here's a rundown on making your own. This is way easier if you do it while your motor is out.
Step 1. If in the US you can go to any hardware store and buy 80-90 Durometer A polyurethane with activator. But for everyone else it can be bought at
mcmaster-carr.com
80 Shore A Durometer/Polyurethane - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644k11 $19 (Softer)
- 94 Shore A Durometer/Polyurethane - 1llb resin/hardener- p/n 8644k18 $19 (Harder)
Just type the part number in the search and it will come up with the right stuff.
They shipped it fedex and it was at my place in canada in two days. Here's what it looked like, it was prepackaged by weight so I just had to add everything in the smaller bottle to everything in the big can and stir it up and it was just enough with a little bit to spare.
:note: it will probably come differently from a hardware store and mixing will have to be measured out
Step 2. Remove the motor mounts. These are the two in worst shape
Step 3. Clean motor mounts well. I used a heavy duty paint thinner and stiff brush, it really cleaned all the oil and grime off.
Step 4. Sand all the rubber with low grit paper. It needs to be roughened up for the urethane to stick to it.
Step 5. I made 4 cardboard cutouts of one side of one mount and they all fit, I then duct taped the cardboard pieces to the side of each mount.
(:note: On the one mount where the fluid couldn't reach the other side, I drilled a couple big holes to the other side so it would flow to the underside)
Step 6. Mix polyurethane solution as per directions, wait about ten minutes for it to get mollasesy and pour into mounts until it reaches the top.
(:note: even through teh cardboard and duct tape it is still iquid and it might find a away to escape so just keep topping it up until it hasd gelled enough to not flow anywhere)
Step 7. wait at least 18-24 hours before putting any motor weight on them. I took the duct tape off and had to use a gasket scraper to get the cardboard off after 12 hours.
And there's the finished product, they are ugly but very tough and very practical
All around I can feel more vibration in the car but then again the various interior parts rattling is no different from when the subs are hittin, and the throttle response/torque when shifting is just amazing. Very big difference from before. I highly recommend doing this if you have the time, although if I did it again I would go for maybe a durometer 70 instead just to give a little more flex but to each his own
Step 1. If in the US you can go to any hardware store and buy 80-90 Durometer A polyurethane with activator. But for everyone else it can be bought at
mcmaster-carr.com
80 Shore A Durometer/Polyurethane - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644k11 $19 (Softer)
- 94 Shore A Durometer/Polyurethane - 1llb resin/hardener- p/n 8644k18 $19 (Harder)
Just type the part number in the search and it will come up with the right stuff.
They shipped it fedex and it was at my place in canada in two days. Here's what it looked like, it was prepackaged by weight so I just had to add everything in the smaller bottle to everything in the big can and stir it up and it was just enough with a little bit to spare.
:note: it will probably come differently from a hardware store and mixing will have to be measured out
Step 2. Remove the motor mounts. These are the two in worst shape
Step 3. Clean motor mounts well. I used a heavy duty paint thinner and stiff brush, it really cleaned all the oil and grime off.
Step 4. Sand all the rubber with low grit paper. It needs to be roughened up for the urethane to stick to it.
Step 5. I made 4 cardboard cutouts of one side of one mount and they all fit, I then duct taped the cardboard pieces to the side of each mount.
(:note: On the one mount where the fluid couldn't reach the other side, I drilled a couple big holes to the other side so it would flow to the underside)
Step 6. Mix polyurethane solution as per directions, wait about ten minutes for it to get mollasesy and pour into mounts until it reaches the top.
(:note: even through teh cardboard and duct tape it is still iquid and it might find a away to escape so just keep topping it up until it hasd gelled enough to not flow anywhere)
Step 7. wait at least 18-24 hours before putting any motor weight on them. I took the duct tape off and had to use a gasket scraper to get the cardboard off after 12 hours.
And there's the finished product, they are ugly but very tough and very practical
All around I can feel more vibration in the car but then again the various interior parts rattling is no different from when the subs are hittin, and the throttle response/torque when shifting is just amazing. Very big difference from before. I highly recommend doing this if you have the time, although if I did it again I would go for maybe a durometer 70 instead just to give a little more flex but to each his own
-Jason
Nice write up man.