Post by 86er on Dec 28, 2004 0:16:38 GMT -5
Ok, this is going to be long.
here we go:
Things you will need:
1. Rear, brake set up from a gts, all of it.
Take the back brake like off the gts, at the mount on the car, as you will need the longer length line.
Then, get under the car, take off the exhaust as you need to remove the heat shield('s) from the bottom of the car so you can get to all the mounting points for the E-Brake cables. They have 10mm bolts holding them on, then after you drop the heat shields down, take a 10mm socket/wrench, and remove all the bolts securing the cables to the bottom of the car. After you do this, you will have enough slack in the lines to take the ends out of the braket on the bottom of the car that is directly under the E-brake lever.
Losen the 19mm bolts and nuts which hold the strut assembly, to remove the hub assembly, dont take them out as the assembly will move to much to get the "big ass" bolt that goes paralell with the car on the bottom off the set up. The big bolt that the links bolt to on the bottom of the assembly. Dont know what size these are.
After you get this long bolt out (its hard) take the 19mm bolts out that you lossened, and the assembly will have to be pried out, but make sure not to damage anything when you remove the hub/brake set up.
Make sure you have everything out before you start dropping the hub assembly down.
And to put it back on, do the revers to put it on.
2. You will need the front hub/nuckle assembly.(sence you have it out already, it is a good idea to get new bearings and seals)
This is the fun part. Take the caughter pin out of the driveshaft's, then take the brass star nut off, this is a safty devise so the nut doesn't back off.
If the car is still on the ground it will be much easier. Get a 30mm socket, and take the drive shaft nuts off, completly.
Next, take the tie rod end off. 17mm nut, but make sure you have the caughter pin out before doing this. If it just doesn't "pull out", use a pickle fork with a hammer to nock it loos.
Next is the bottome ball joint nuts, 2, and bolt, on the bottom of the control arm. All of them are 17mm. take the nuts out completly, but leave the bolt in.
Now, get the 19mm bolt/nuts off which hold the strut assembly to the hub set up.
This is the time to take the ball joint bolt off, ya know, the one you left IN.
Now get a jack, and on the bottom of the hum jack it up and it will "pop" out.
The hub assembly will not just slid right off of the drive shafts.
Things to pay special attention to:
1.The caliper on the front of a st/gt will work, only the brakets are 22-1's. The gts's are 22-2. You will need these to make your brakes work.
2. Make sure you get new pad's, rotors, and if neeed, a brake hardware kit.
3. And to bleed the brakes, starting from the farthest caliper from the brake booster.
Now this will take a better part of a weekend, if you dont know what your doing. If you do, about 2hours to do the back and the front.
I got the Brembo rear rotors, about $150 for both.
And i also got the KVR front drilled and sloted rotors, about $350 with drilling, slotting, coating, and a great warrenty.
I can honestly say thse things are outstanding. On the performance scale from 1-10, i give it about a 12!
Now on the other hand, the scale of difficulty from 1-10, is about a 5. If you have the wright tools, its fast, and fun. If not, your in for some fun times.
Take your time, and do it wright the first time. Dont cut corners.
It will reward you on braking, and safty as well.
Have fun!
Of forgote this, over all price for this swap, woth it, about $500, with bearings and seals.
here we go:
Things you will need:
1. Rear, brake set up from a gts, all of it.
Take the back brake like off the gts, at the mount on the car, as you will need the longer length line.
Then, get under the car, take off the exhaust as you need to remove the heat shield('s) from the bottom of the car so you can get to all the mounting points for the E-Brake cables. They have 10mm bolts holding them on, then after you drop the heat shields down, take a 10mm socket/wrench, and remove all the bolts securing the cables to the bottom of the car. After you do this, you will have enough slack in the lines to take the ends out of the braket on the bottom of the car that is directly under the E-brake lever.
Losen the 19mm bolts and nuts which hold the strut assembly, to remove the hub assembly, dont take them out as the assembly will move to much to get the "big ass" bolt that goes paralell with the car on the bottom off the set up. The big bolt that the links bolt to on the bottom of the assembly. Dont know what size these are.
After you get this long bolt out (its hard) take the 19mm bolts out that you lossened, and the assembly will have to be pried out, but make sure not to damage anything when you remove the hub/brake set up.
Make sure you have everything out before you start dropping the hub assembly down.
And to put it back on, do the revers to put it on.
2. You will need the front hub/nuckle assembly.(sence you have it out already, it is a good idea to get new bearings and seals)
This is the fun part. Take the caughter pin out of the driveshaft's, then take the brass star nut off, this is a safty devise so the nut doesn't back off.
If the car is still on the ground it will be much easier. Get a 30mm socket, and take the drive shaft nuts off, completly.
Next, take the tie rod end off. 17mm nut, but make sure you have the caughter pin out before doing this. If it just doesn't "pull out", use a pickle fork with a hammer to nock it loos.
Next is the bottome ball joint nuts, 2, and bolt, on the bottom of the control arm. All of them are 17mm. take the nuts out completly, but leave the bolt in.
Now, get the 19mm bolt/nuts off which hold the strut assembly to the hub set up.
This is the time to take the ball joint bolt off, ya know, the one you left IN.
Now get a jack, and on the bottom of the hum jack it up and it will "pop" out.
The hub assembly will not just slid right off of the drive shafts.
Things to pay special attention to:
1.The caliper on the front of a st/gt will work, only the brakets are 22-1's. The gts's are 22-2. You will need these to make your brakes work.
2. Make sure you get new pad's, rotors, and if neeed, a brake hardware kit.
3. And to bleed the brakes, starting from the farthest caliper from the brake booster.
Now this will take a better part of a weekend, if you dont know what your doing. If you do, about 2hours to do the back and the front.
I got the Brembo rear rotors, about $150 for both.
And i also got the KVR front drilled and sloted rotors, about $350 with drilling, slotting, coating, and a great warrenty.
I can honestly say thse things are outstanding. On the performance scale from 1-10, i give it about a 12!
Now on the other hand, the scale of difficulty from 1-10, is about a 5. If you have the wright tools, its fast, and fun. If not, your in for some fun times.
Take your time, and do it wright the first time. Dont cut corners.
It will reward you on braking, and safty as well.
Have fun!
Of forgote this, over all price for this swap, woth it, about $500, with bearings and seals.