mrgud
ST Crew
'87, GT-S
Posts: 84
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Post by mrgud on Jun 15, 2005 3:51:12 GMT -5
Is it the oil pressure or the oil temperature?  Mine is running most of the time in the middle, between at the start of the optimum... when the car si running steady at 1000rpms it falls close to minimum, and when reving at 4000 it shows optimum...  If it is temperature, it's ok but if it is pressure, JAIKS! Friend told me to put thicker oil, more viscouse. I am running 5-w40 now, I'm going to try 10-w40, suposely it should run better. I heard that 5w40 oil is not good for Toyotas, that it is not thick enough, wich I think is stupid because if other cars use it, why wouldn't Celica... The water temperature is ok... the fan is running normaly, the car runs ok, it doesn't smoke oil on the cap or on the exhaust... Allthow, there is oil on the spark plug cables and on the outside of the spark plugs, not much... It drinks about a 1dl of oil on a 1000km... wich is not much for a engine 220 000 km old...  |
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Post by Rick89GTS on Jun 15, 2005 19:13:09 GMT -5
Pressure.
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mrgud
ST Crew
'87, GT-S
Posts: 84
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Post by mrgud on Jun 17, 2005 2:18:36 GMT -5
hm... cool... next time 10w40
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Post by Rick89GTS on Jun 17, 2005 3:00:47 GMT -5
.....Mine is running most of the time in the middle, between at the start of the optimum... when the car is running steady at 1000rpms it falls close to minimum, and when reving at 4000 it shows optimum... It will change according to speed and under load. What you described sounds pretty normal; that's about where mine runs, so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Sometimes older, higher-mileage motors (like mine) can benefit from a slightly thicker oil. I run a blend of 10w30 and 10w40. Sometimes I run straight 10w40 in the summer, no problems. |
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Post by 4thgenceli on Jun 17, 2005 10:10:33 GMT -5
I'm runnin 10w40 right now in my FE. I went from a 30 to a 40wt as I thought it would cure my problem.. but it sorta did.. it's quieter now, but I too have the same thing going on w/ my oil pressure gauge, I 'm gonna get an aftermarket gauge and throw it in there..  |
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mrgud
ST Crew
'87, GT-S
Posts: 84
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Post by mrgud on Jun 21, 2005 4:02:53 GMT -5
yeah... i would try the aftermarket, but I'm thinking about selling... got a combination for a rally Skoda, rollcage, seats, the lot, for a bargin... But I kinda love my celi so...  Why instal something that somebody else will use hehehe |
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89NWK
GT Crew
89 GT-S Liftback
Posts: 185
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Post by 89NWK on Jun 21, 2005 19:20:02 GMT -5
ya al of the smallerengines do that the 2se and the FE both do it its normal it tells you in the owners manual, my GTS has never done and neaither has my alltrac so i think its just the smaller engines that do it.
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Post by Jeremy on Jul 8, 2005 11:39:16 GMT -5
average oil pressure on all S series engines are 7psi at idle which is almost as low as it goes on the gauge & 55-60psi at 2500+ RPMS which is about in the middle. Sounds quite normal.
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farqy
New Member
Posts: 14
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Post by farqy on Jul 14, 2005 14:46:24 GMT -5
switching to a 40 type oil, even in the summer is bad news, and the winter is horrible news. the clearances in your journals and other working parts are engineered to be used with 30 type oils, and the heavier oils will not flow as well through those parts, which is why your oil PRESSURE goes higher... what you want is flow to remove heat and wear particles.
Yes, a heavier oil will help to separate your parts while moving to prevent metal on metal contact, but on startup, it will kill you because it takes so long for the oil to flow up to the top of the engine and start lubing up your cams!
In the winter, it can take minutes for a 40 type oil to get to the top of the engine, where as a good, synthetic 0W30 or 5W30 can get to the top in about 30 seconds..
AND in hot weather, you want a 0W-or 5W-, not 10W40 or whatnot... here is how oil works...
There is a curve that oil viscosity follows, and the higher the second number (IE:10W40) means the higher viscosity at high temperature, and contrary to what most people think, the first number, increases the viscosity at LOW temperature. What this makes is a curve on a graph... and the higher temperature you get, the thicker the lower number stays while the higher numbers fall off more rapidly... Confused yet? Think of this... a 0W40 is thicker than a 15W40 at 100 degrees due to its chemistry, AND is thinner at low temperature.
You also generate more heat by switching to a thicker oil, because you have to overcome the friction of the thicker oil. That is why Ford and Honda are switching to 0W20 for their fleet of cars, they save on gasoline by less friction in the internal parts of the engine.
Best to find a good 0W30 or 5W30 and stick with it in every season, you will get the best protection. Switching oils every season is a good way to confuse and wreck your seals.
Heck, if you want to go faster, switch to a 0W20, for less friction, but make sure your parts are in good shape, because the oil film will be thinner between parts....
And the W in oil types stands for Winter, for those who thinks it means Weight...
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farqy
New Member
Posts: 14
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Post by farqy on Jul 14, 2005 14:47:39 GMT -5
I have seen a lot of CAT equipment with big, huge horsepower and torque diesel engines run on 10 weight hydraulic oil all seasons and not wear... and save fuel!
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Post by thomash on Jul 14, 2005 20:05:57 GMT -5
Interesting. I chose 10W40 because of the oil chart in the manual. It doesn't get that cold here, but it does get fairly hot, so 10W40 seemed like an appropriate compromise.
Does Toyota have an updated recommendation?
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Why instal something that somebody else will use 
