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Post by rye on Aug 23, 2004 18:30:48 GMT -5
Ok, engine swap time...where do I start, what's the easiest fastest way to get a 3sge out, and another 3sge in....all the wiring harnesses are still attached to the new 3sge, as well as the transmission, so it will be right in right out....
Thanks in advance ;D
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Edward_H
GT Crew
Boosting the 165
Posts: 184
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Post by Edward_H on Aug 23, 2004 21:16:25 GMT -5
rye: i dont know if you did hear me.. but i would say switch the tranny... the second gear sincro (spelling) on mine is almost gone..
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Post by CodingParadox on Aug 24, 2004 0:40:29 GMT -5
Just go to engine mechanical in the BTB, look under cylinder block, and it has step by step instructions as to how to remove the engine.
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Post by rye on Aug 24, 2004 6:11:00 GMT -5
rye: i dont know if you did hear me.. but i would say switch the tranny... the second gear sincro (spelling) on mine is almost gone.. hmm...no i think that you failed to mention that.
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Post by rye on Aug 24, 2004 6:11:37 GMT -5
Just go to engine mechanical in the BTB, look under cylinder block, and it has step by step instructions as to how to remove the engine. teh btb?
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Edward_H
GT Crew
Boosting the 165
Posts: 184
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Post by Edward_H on Aug 24, 2004 7:28:52 GMT -5
im turly sorry man.. i thought i did... my apologies
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Post by CodingParadox on Aug 24, 2004 12:47:20 GMT -5
Er, BGB, sorry. ;D
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Post by rye on Aug 24, 2004 15:27:31 GMT -5
im turly sorry man.. i thought i did... my apologies anything else you failed to mention?
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Post by rye on Aug 24, 2004 15:28:11 GMT -5
ahh...makes sense now...haha
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Edward_H
GT Crew
Boosting the 165
Posts: 184
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Post by Edward_H on Aug 24, 2004 19:57:52 GMT -5
anything else you failed to mention? as i say im sorry i didnt mention it.. its a bad on my behaft no only as a seller but as a 4gen owner.. but other then the tranny the engine runs perfect.. as you should soon find out..
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Post by rye on Aug 25, 2004 6:13:05 GMT -5
ed do u still have the rad?
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Edward_H
GT Crew
Boosting the 165
Posts: 184
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Post by Edward_H on Aug 25, 2004 13:01:41 GMT -5
yea but its not a stock rad.. meaning the upper rad hose is more towards the exhaust, so me had to mod the hose about 3" and make use it had that heat covering for the hose at the part thats next to the exhaust.. the car never did over heat.. (even in the hot summer)... P.S. im trying to find a pic to explan what i mean.. but dont think i have on. edit: i got some pic img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Edward_H/Temp/IM000331.jpgimg.photobucket.com/albums/v374/Edward_H/Temp/IM000329.jpgkeep in mind the reason the hose is touching the heat sheld is cuase it was push back when i got into the crash.
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Post by schmooot on Aug 29, 2004 13:18:29 GMT -5
ok I just did this twice last month, so if you get stuck or need pics or something I can help. Lemme try to break it down. First I got an empty pop flat and every time I took a series of bolts off something I would stick it in the cardboard and draw a circle around them and label what component they are for. Makes it so much easier to put back together.
Second unplug and take the following things out and put them somewhere you won't lose them: battery, battery tray, airbox and hose, strut brace, plug wires, rad(with upper and lower rad hoses), exhaust heat shield, lower plastic mudguards.
If not already jack the car up and put it on blocks, take both tires off and remove the driveaxles (drain the tranny fluid first), remove the lower crossmember(the one going from side to side in the backside of the engine bay). Drain the oil. While you're under there unbolt the u-bolt holding the exhaust pipe to the block, also unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust manifold, the exhaust should now swing freely on your flexpipe you should be able to lay it down and bend it out of your way
Unbolt the cruise control unit and remove the accelerator cable from the bracket on the manifold and place the whole unit(with the primary cable still in the firewall) on a rag on the windshield
I used a parts marker that the auto wrecker uses to make marks on every hose and wire and where it connects to. I used a yellow marker and put one two or three stripes on either side of a connection, or x's or o's when I ran out in a cluster. unplug all the wires and vacuum hoses attached to the block and between the block and the intake manifold(try to keep things attached to the firewall). Keep in mind that the wire harness running through the intake manifold will stay in the engine bay as well as the manifold (it makes it easier, trust me, you'll find out later)
Remove AC compressor, keep it plugged in to the ac lines but wrap it in a rag and hang it over the fender)the lines will reach) that way its out of the way.
Remove alternator, exhaust manifold and starter(and all the braces and brackets and crap, keep them all together and stab the bolts in your carboard or you'll never remember where they came from)
Unbolt the clutch cylinder from the front of the tranny(do not disconnect any lines!!! just pull the line out of the clip on the tranny and wire it off to the side with the rest of the wires, these should all curl up off to the battery side of the bay. Loosen your fuel cap and unbolt the main fuel line from the top of the fuel filter.(you will lose some fuel but not a lot) Take the clips off and remove the shifter cables from the tranny and shift linkage
Now hook your engine hoist up(I had an adjustable one where I could tilt the engine quite a bit, if you don't have this you will have to drop the tranny out the bottom before lifting the engine up. Lift the engine up a coupla strokes and unbolt all the motor mounts(the one on the tranny will have to come all the way out as well as the bracket holding it onto the tranny. Now lift the engine up more until it is straining on the wire harness. Now remove the intake manifold(lotsa bolts and brackets) and wire it to your wiper to keep it out of the way. Then remove the power steering pump.
Now unlpug any connectors and hoses that you cuoldn't see before and pull the engine out. I had to tilt it quite a bit and push and pull to slip it out but once you clear the pulleys it comes out easy. Then swap over stuff you need to from the other engine. Pay close attention to the wire connections on the tranny and the little coolant elbow coming out of the head(now would be a good time to change the thermostat and various gaskets) I had a tranny off an 86 and I had to pull the speed sensor out and change it with my 89 one as well as the reverse switch. ANd some connections were different on the elbow with the jdm and all.
While its out buy some polyurethane and redo your motor mounts (check the writeup on this site, or check my writeup with pictures on celica.net in the DIY forum)
Now drop the new one with tranny back in and put the ps pump and intake manifold back on and then drop the rest of the way and hook up the mounts and then reattach everything else.
If I missed anything someone please speak up this is just from memory. If you have abny specific questions pm me or post here and I'll try to help
edit: I see the harness is still attached to the new engine. I would remove it and use the harness already in there, then you wouldn't have to feed it through the firewall on the passenger side and/or cut and paste
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Post by rye on Aug 29, 2004 14:30:21 GMT -5
thank you very much ;D
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Post by rye on Aug 29, 2004 14:31:15 GMT -5
a little change of plans though.....the tranny on this engine is no good but the existing one in the car is mint....is it possible to pull the engine without pulling the tranny??
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